Tuesday, June 30, 2009

The Secret Tuscany

The Tuscan Islands

Mention Tuscany and most travelers will sigh fondly remembering rolling hills of vineyards, endless fields of sunflowers and wild flowers, afternoons strolling through Sienna exploring art galleries and cathedrals and olive oil tastings under a pergola of grape vines. However, a privileged few can recall their visit to the Seven Sisters of Tuscany as it is the region’s best kept secret.

Off of the Tuscan coast lie a group of seven islands known as "The Seven Sisters." This cluster of beautiful landscapes and heavenly coastlines offers those in the know the solitude and the Old-world Italy they crave.

The Seven Sisters are comprised of Elba, the most visited; Giglio, known to Europeans as a diving paradise; nearby Giannutri, with its captivating coves perfect for sailors; Capraia, an island of volcanic origin which is the closest island to Corsica; Gorgona and Pianosa which can only be visited if you are an Italian prisoner, and Montecristo which requires a special permit.

An island tour – just a taste:

Isola d'Elba
Elba is the largest and most visited island. It sits just 6 miles off Piombino and can easily be reached by ferry for a day trip from mainland Tuscany.

For the historians: Elba is the famous site of Napoleon’s exile in 1814. On his return to France, Napoleon left two houses which are now National Museums (what can we say about what visitors will see in the museum?). Additionally, since every Mediterranean civilization has left its imprint on Elba, it is home to a diverse collection of plentiful ruins and historical sites.

Great Expectations: Elba is also home to breathtaking beaches with cliffs rising from the sea, crystal clear blue waters, mountain paths, flora and fauna, medieval villages, luxury hotels, tourist facilities and sailing schools. Elba is unique in that it has developed modern conveniences to meet the tourism demands, while maintaining its Old-world charm and uncontaminated natural beauty.

Isola del Giglio
Its name ('Giglio' means lily in Italian) has nothing to do with the flowers, but derived from the Greek word "Aegilion" which means "the place of the goats" because of the high number of these animals living here. But don’t worry, the occasional goat encounter you may have only adds to the allure of this island.

Breath of Fresh Air: Giglio’s mild climate year round makes it an ideal vacation spot all year. The topography is spectacular and quite varied. You will see granite cliffs, sandy beaches, and plant life that seems to emerge from an underground spring. The port is picture perfect with clear azul water giving way to cliffs of rising vineyards and ruins from the 18th century. A popular spot for surfing and sailing, Giglio also offers spectacular sunsets, aviary pursuits, nature hikes and fresh seafood.

Giannutri
Giannutri is a half-moon shaped island located at the southernmost point of the Arcipelago della Toscano, and boasts that it has only a handful of inhabitants.

A Little R & R: The coastline is rugged and gives way to numerous coves where one can find solitude and rejuvenation. There are two landing places: Cala Maestra on the western side and Cala dello Spalmatoio, which is a bit more developed.

Back to Nature: Although tourists are not allowed to stay overnight on the island unless they have rented accommodation, the island still deserves to be visited for the incredible beauty of its sea and the unspoiled nature; the island is both a natural reserve and a marine park.

Dive, Dive: Due to the number of shipwrecks dating back to the Roman Empire, Giannutri provides awe-inspiring diving opportunities for both the beginner and expert diver. The tourism department also notes that “the depths contain falaises, caves, meadows of Poseidonia, sea fans, sea roses, sea horses, sea stars, corals, sea urchins, dentexes, sargas, sponges but also wrecks. It is possible to meet dolphins, a whale or a turtle too.” It is the ideal place for day excursions and add on diving trips.

Capraia
Capraia lies the farthest from the Tuscan coast and is just 16 miles from Corsica. Volcanic in origin, Capraia is the only island of the Arcipelago della Toscano with a lake and is part of the Tuscan Islands National Park. Divers are the number one tourists here, as the crystal blue waters hold diverse aquatic life unique to the region as well as archeological ruins.

Smelling the Roses: This Mediterranean gem is third in size after Elba and Giglio, and is lush with herbal and floral aromas and seascapes you won’t easily forget. (Can people stay overnight here? Types of accommodations?) A visit to beautiful Capraia will leave you feeling as if you had a very special glimpse at a world long past.

Gorgona, Monetcristo and Pianosa
The three remaining sisters are not open to the public. Gorgona and Pianosa both host prisons, and unless you are visiting a prisoner, the public is not allowed access.

Montecristo is the island made famous in Alexandre Dumas’ novel The Count of Montecristo. Interestingly, Dumas chose to make Montecristo the site of a fictional prison. The real island serves as a nature preserve and as such the public is limited to 500 meters from the coast without a special license.

Island Fare
One of the best things about visiting Italy is the food and wine. The food of the Arcipelago della Toscano will not disappoint.

Not surprising, the local cuisine consists predominantly of fresh fish and seafood. Two local soups are not to be missed. Sburita, is Tuscan fish soup and gurguglione a mild onion soup. Both are unique and out of this world on flavors.

The mild climate of the Seven Sisters is ideally suited for cultivating vineyards and fine wines. Elba is the most well known for its wines, including: Rosso, Procanico, Aleatico, Moscato and Ansonico, which is an amber-colored wine that dates back to the Roman Empire. Today, Ansonico is produced in a very limited quantity and generally bought up by wine aficionados.

Weather in the Tuscan Islands
The climate of the Tuscan Islands is mild and pleasant most of the year. During the high season from May through October, daily temperatures average 70 degrees and offer the perfect weather for enjoying the islands by foot, bicycle, horse or boat. (What about rainfall?)

Getting There
Reaching the Seven Sisters requires a bit of an effort, but once you arrive and settle in, there is no doubt that you will join the ranks of the lucky fans of the Tuscan islands.

Flights are available through British Airways, EasyJet or Ryanair from Pisa International Airport (PSA). From the airport, trains run from Pisa Centrale station to Piombino.

One can reach the islands via ferries run by Moby and Toremar
, however, due to the limited times that the ferries offer and the minimal number of luxury accommodations many well honed travelers prefer to visit the sisters via a private yacht charter or sailing excursion.

The Arcipelado della Toscano will leave you feeling relaxed, peaceful and oh-so-far from home. The beaches, dramatic countryside and the abounding culture make a trip to the Seven Sisters an experience you won’t forget. It will give you bragging rights to all those friends of yours who simply went to Sienna last summer.

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